Hi folks,
Over the weekend I returned to work on the Resistance Fighter range for the first time in a long time. I've got no specific plans at the moment, rather I've been reworking the basic dolly that forms the basis for each figure. Don't worry, I won't be changing the scale or proportions of the range; I'm just tidying things up as well as making an easier model to pose and alter.
The range currently consists of 13 unique models plus lots of different head and weapon options that are interchangeable between the figures. More variety is always a good thing though I'd also like any new figures to serve an particular purpose or theme while still working with the rest of the range as a whole. For example, the Resistance Recon Team has a defined role and adds flavour but matches the regular Resistance Fighters nicely.
For the new figures, I'm considering not using the interchangeable weapons, neither those that fit the Resistance Fighters nor the Officer Weapons. This would allow me more freedom for poses and design. As such, I feel some kind of specialist unit would be appropriate. Of course, these figures would still use various heads from the Resistance Fighter Accessories range and alternative weapons could be added, just following a different format.
Oh, I do have one concrete idea: I'd like to update Bella the Partisan, one of the first figures released from Statuesque Miniatures and the inspiration behind the Resistance.
So what would you like to see added to the range? Comment below and let me know!
Showing posts with label Thoughts and Ponderings. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thoughts and Ponderings. Show all posts
Monday, 11 August 2014
Tuesday, 13 May 2014
Of figure scales and sizes
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Statuesque Sci-fi, through Statuesque Pulp, to Statuesque Fantasy. |
I thought I would write a post to highlight the different figure sizes and proportions that I'm now working to for our different ranges. For each genre - sci-fi, fantasy and pulp - I've altered how I use sizing and proportion, both to provide me with different sculpting opportunities and to perhaps better match the kind of ranges I see the Statuesque figures being used alongside.
Statuesque Sci-Fi
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Bella the Partisan - the remaining figure from the launch of Statuesque Miniatures. |
So the Statuesque Miniatures Sci-Fi range perhaps features figures more slender than most, but it will work nicely with many other manufacturers' ranges, the most obvious being that of Infinity by Corvus Belli. It should be noted that all the head sprues in the Resistance Fighter Accessories range a designed for the Statuesque Sci-fi range, not as add-on parts for other manufacturers' figures, though I have seen them used nicely on Infinity and Sedition Wars figures amongst others.
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L-R: Sedition Wars, Statuesque Sci-Fi, Infinity, Statuesque Sci-Fi, Hasslefree, Statuesque Sci-Fi |
Pulp Alley and Statuesque Asylum
It was decided that the pulp genre figures should be slightly chunkier than the existing Statuesque Sci-fi figures, with slightly bigger heads and extremities, to better match existing pulp ranges such as those by Copplestone Castings and Pulp Figures. With such diverse figures already on the market, it would have been a bit silly to try and rewrite things with our new ranges.
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L-R: Statuesque Sci-fi, Crooked Dice, Statuesque Asylum, Copplestone Castings, Pulp Alley, Copplestone, Pulp Alley, Copplestone, Statuesque Asylum, Hasslefree Miniatures. |
Statuesque Fantasy
The newly launched Statuesque Fantasy range is not my first foray into fantasy miniatures. That came with the release of the diminutive Ezmeralda Tyke.![]() |
A very small elf name Ezmeralda Tyke. |
Now I could have ploughed my own furrow and expanded the fantasy range in a style similar to Ezmeralda, but the thing is I actually really like exaggerated, caricatured fantasy figures. My Kev Adams Citadel goblins are some of my favourite figures and I really wanted to make fantasy characters of my own that I could use alongside (or more accurately in opposition to) those figures.
This has led to the new Statuesque Fantasy range of adventurers, unashamedly exaggerated, caricatured and ridiculous! And yes, they do have very big noses, don't they...
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A big nose, a slightly smaller nose, a wide nose and a very big nose. |
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Games Workshop and Statuesque Fantasy |
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Our four heroes fail to spot the diminutive, elf-like creature creeping along beside them in the shadows. |
Heroic Scale Heads
Finally we come to the black sheep of the Statuesque range, the Heroic Scale Female Heads. These do not fit any existing Statuesque figure, but are designed for use on your heroic scale figures from other manufactures. I sculpted these because there appeared to be demand for heads similar to those that I'd made for the Resistance Fighter range, only larger.
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L-R: Resistance Fighter Beret heads, Heroic Scale Female Heads, Resistance Fighter Cracking Hairdo heads. |
So that's my run-down on the whys and wherefores of the perhaps ever-so-slightly confusing sizing differences between the different Statuesque ranges. I enjoy sculpting to these different styles as it allows me to do something different from the last figure I sculpted, so each range will continue to expand in future. Don't forget there are a number of comparison photos here on the blog so you can judge for yourselves how you think the figures will match your existing collection.
Regards,
Andrew Rae
Friday, 23 August 2013
Digital Miniatures Manufacture - it's not just pressing buttons...
Update: I have decided to update this post with the name of the company that supplied the poor quality prints: Maxmini3D.eu. I'm doing this so as not to cast doubt on companies that may offer similar services. I feel what is written below is a fair review of the service and product supplied by Maxmini and a fair comparison with the Envisiontec Perfactory prints.
Update 2: In light of my criticism of Maxmini's quality control, I thought it appropriate to show the initial castings I received from them. When I have the chance, I will add photos of all the replacement castings.
Update 3 12/09/2013: Perhaps not surprisingly, Maxmini do not feel inclined to issue a partial refund, finally replying after 3 weeks and 3 emails. Their reasoning for this is the damage done by this blog post to their 'brand image' . They state 'after you decided to write such a post you already have your payment for "loss". It is satisfaction'. They assert I should have waited for the matter to be resolved before writing such a blog post, ignoring the fact that the main subject of the post is the defective replacements sent out following the first batch of defective parts - they had their chance. I cannot be held responsible for any negative effect on Maxmini's brand: they are responsible for that, firstly when they sent such obviously faulty and incorrect parts, but more damningly when they repeated the quality control failure with the replacements.
Update 4: Okay, okay. Final update. I added a comparison of some of the first castings next to the replacements, just to highlight the level of quality control and why I didn't feel obliged to wait for the third attempt...
Update 5 13/09/2013: Now it's the final update! Maxmini have now issued a refund for the fault parts. Apparently steps have also been taken to avoid a similar situation in future.
It's over a year now since I had my first digitally sculpted figures printed, moulded, cast and put on sale. Obviously, I was a traditional sculptor prior to going digital, so I think I hit the ground running in regards to knowing what exaggerations and level of detail I had to sculpt to in order for the detail to be viable for the final casting. Still, I've learned a lot in the past year and keep striving to make each figure better than the last.
Until recently, I had used a single 3D print bureau, Timolaumann.de, who have provided excellent service and great prints. The specific printer used is a Envisiontec Perfactory machine, printing a temperature resistant resin. One of the quirks of this method and material is the support structure attached to the figure during the printing process. This has to be removed and leaves little pegs that need cleaning off with a sharp scalpel, perhaps some areas need to be fixed with putty. It is probably a wee bit more involved than cleaning mould lines on a metal or resin figure, which makes me glad I used to sculpt figures by hand - I can easily do what is required. No 3D printing process is entirely free of hand finishing if best results are required.
For a recent batch of files, I tried out an alternative print bureau, Maxmini3D.eu. In contrast to the company I used previously, whom I believe mostly work in the jewelry industry, Maxmini3D is specifically targeted at miniatures manufacture.
Firstly, I should say the quote from Maxmini3D was significantly lower than what I had been used to with my usual bureau. I will admit this worried me, though I did not voice my concerns.
3D prints are created by building up layers. The taller the part is in it's z axis, the longer it will take to print and therefore the greater the price. However, the z-axis layer depth is usually greater than x/y resolution. This means if you were to print a sphere, there would be some slight 'contour lines' on the top and bottom of the sphere, but not on the sides. These contours tend to show on shallow curved surfaces nearing the horizontal. It's part of the 3D printing deal and something I fix by hand on the physical print - it can be scrapped off as you would remove a mould line.
Because the contours appear on the top and bottom surfaces, I've found it best for figures to be printed in a 'standing' position, as the final casting would be assembled. That way, any contours only appear on the top and bottom of a figure, a smaller area than the sides of the figure. It also allows greater depth and definition in a face and figure details - if you were to slice your nose into horizontal slices, there would be more slices than if you sliced your nose into vertical slices... Therefore there is more defined detail if the head is printed where the z-axis is the height of the head.
So getting back to the quote, that is why the Maxmini3D quote was cheaper than I was used to - they printed the figures lying flat on their backs and the heads likewise. It saved time and saved me money, but at the expense of quality. I had supplied the figure orientated in an upright position as I hoped they would be printed. It was the printer's decision to save some time and money. However, I'm actually glad I didn't insist on the parts being printed vertically, which I'll get to later.
Now, whereas my previous prints have been resin, Maxmini3D prints in wax. This has the advantage that the support material is not physically attached to the print; it can be removed without leaving the tabs and imperfections you would get with a Perfactory resin print. This is the reason I was interested in trying new processes. However, wax prints do not suit my moulding methods, nor those of the rest of the miniatures industry, so Maxmini3D provide resin casts of the prints. This is included in the price. Sounds like a good deal, no?
Well, it would be if the resin casts were accurate, well-made representations of the files I provided to the printers. I would not expect any distortion or squashed detail and I would expect minimal mould lines and complete parts. My expectations were not met.
Below is a photograph of two of the replacement parts sent by the Maxmini, alongside a print supplied by Timo Laumann. These were made from the same file. I left the support tabs on the Perfactory (orange) print so it is a fair comparison. Admittedly, I was sent several cast of each part, but as they are all poor quality, that doesn't help much.
The photograph doesn't quite show the startling difference in definition and detail depth. It really is striking in the hand. But as I explained, some of that is probably to be expected due to the orientation of the prints when they were being made. You get what you pay for in this case. What I really do object to it the level of distortion in the face. I don't know at what stage this occurred - perhaps the wax print was squashed - but it is totally unacceptable. Just look at her face on the left and right casts! That is not even close to what I sculpted.
It seems the pegs attaching the parts to the sprue have also been thickened by Maxmini3D. This has resulted in the gun barrels ends no longer being straight. I assume this was done due to avoid breakage during the printing and moulding for the resin casts. However, I specifically asked if the files as they were supplied were suitable for the company's needs. I was told they were. If they had asked me, I could have thickened the pegs myself and would have done it properly. As supplied, the casts are not suitable for my needs.
There are other bizarre examples of distortion, too. Several of the 'helmets' are no longer symmetrical, with visor slits at different heights on either side. I cannot fathom how this happened. Certainly not due to a misaligned mould - the mould line does not bisect the visor slits!
The quality of the resin castings also leaves something to be desired. I struggled to find any casts that did not feature heavy, ragged mould lines. In addition, all the initial castings I received did not even feature complete base tabs. They just hadn't been filled with resin. Finally, one of the head sprues had been broken at the print stage and instead of reprinting the part, they had crudely attached the heads to another sprue and moulded that. To their credit, Maxmini3D sent replacement casts and a reprinted, remoulded head sprue [edit: my mistake, the sprue was not reprinted, the broken heads were simply stuck back on with superglue...]. Well done on that, but the replacements are still obviously useless.
Sadly, all this has taken nearly four weeks, delaying the next set of releases and ultimately costing me more in terms of cash flow than just the cost of some bad prints. I have requested a part refund on the distorted, useless parts. Note I've not asked for a full refund as I accept you get what you pay for - cheap prints will always be poor quality, but I cannot accept distorted parts. We shall see how far that gets. This is why I say I'm glad I didn't insist on the parts being printed vertically. If I had they would have cost me far more and while the detail may have been slightly better (I'm not convinced it would have ever matched the Perfactory print), the distortion and bad resin casts would still have meant the parts were useless.
But I have had the parts reprinted by my original printer and now they shall go off for master moulding on Monday. In future, I think I shall stick to what I know. I have a very good, reliable print bureau and likewise a very good, reliable moulding and casting company.
Statuesque Miniatures shall continue to sell the high quality figures my customers have come to expect. Of the companies using substandard print bureaus, I cannot say likewise.
Update 2: In light of my criticism of Maxmini's quality control, I thought it appropriate to show the initial castings I received from them. When I have the chance, I will add photos of all the replacement castings.
Update 3 12/09/2013: Perhaps not surprisingly, Maxmini do not feel inclined to issue a partial refund, finally replying after 3 weeks and 3 emails. Their reasoning for this is the damage done by this blog post to their 'brand image' . They state 'after you decided to write such a post you already have your payment for "loss". It is satisfaction'. They assert I should have waited for the matter to be resolved before writing such a blog post, ignoring the fact that the main subject of the post is the defective replacements sent out following the first batch of defective parts - they had their chance. I cannot be held responsible for any negative effect on Maxmini's brand: they are responsible for that, firstly when they sent such obviously faulty and incorrect parts, but more damningly when they repeated the quality control failure with the replacements.
Update 4: Okay, okay. Final update. I added a comparison of some of the first castings next to the replacements, just to highlight the level of quality control and why I didn't feel obliged to wait for the third attempt...
Update 5 13/09/2013: Now it's the final update! Maxmini have now issued a refund for the fault parts. Apparently steps have also been taken to avoid a similar situation in future.
It's over a year now since I had my first digitally sculpted figures printed, moulded, cast and put on sale. Obviously, I was a traditional sculptor prior to going digital, so I think I hit the ground running in regards to knowing what exaggerations and level of detail I had to sculpt to in order for the detail to be viable for the final casting. Still, I've learned a lot in the past year and keep striving to make each figure better than the last.
Until recently, I had used a single 3D print bureau, Timolaumann.de, who have provided excellent service and great prints. The specific printer used is a Envisiontec Perfactory machine, printing a temperature resistant resin. One of the quirks of this method and material is the support structure attached to the figure during the printing process. This has to be removed and leaves little pegs that need cleaning off with a sharp scalpel, perhaps some areas need to be fixed with putty. It is probably a wee bit more involved than cleaning mould lines on a metal or resin figure, which makes me glad I used to sculpt figures by hand - I can easily do what is required. No 3D printing process is entirely free of hand finishing if best results are required.
For a recent batch of files, I tried out an alternative print bureau, Maxmini3D.eu. In contrast to the company I used previously, whom I believe mostly work in the jewelry industry, Maxmini3D is specifically targeted at miniatures manufacture.
Firstly, I should say the quote from Maxmini3D was significantly lower than what I had been used to with my usual bureau. I will admit this worried me, though I did not voice my concerns.
3D prints are created by building up layers. The taller the part is in it's z axis, the longer it will take to print and therefore the greater the price. However, the z-axis layer depth is usually greater than x/y resolution. This means if you were to print a sphere, there would be some slight 'contour lines' on the top and bottom of the sphere, but not on the sides. These contours tend to show on shallow curved surfaces nearing the horizontal. It's part of the 3D printing deal and something I fix by hand on the physical print - it can be scrapped off as you would remove a mould line.
Because the contours appear on the top and bottom surfaces, I've found it best for figures to be printed in a 'standing' position, as the final casting would be assembled. That way, any contours only appear on the top and bottom of a figure, a smaller area than the sides of the figure. It also allows greater depth and definition in a face and figure details - if you were to slice your nose into horizontal slices, there would be more slices than if you sliced your nose into vertical slices... Therefore there is more defined detail if the head is printed where the z-axis is the height of the head.
So getting back to the quote, that is why the Maxmini3D quote was cheaper than I was used to - they printed the figures lying flat on their backs and the heads likewise. It saved time and saved me money, but at the expense of quality. I had supplied the figure orientated in an upright position as I hoped they would be printed. It was the printer's decision to save some time and money. However, I'm actually glad I didn't insist on the parts being printed vertically, which I'll get to later.
Now, whereas my previous prints have been resin, Maxmini3D prints in wax. This has the advantage that the support material is not physically attached to the print; it can be removed without leaving the tabs and imperfections you would get with a Perfactory resin print. This is the reason I was interested in trying new processes. However, wax prints do not suit my moulding methods, nor those of the rest of the miniatures industry, so Maxmini3D provide resin casts of the prints. This is included in the price. Sounds like a good deal, no?
Well, it would be if the resin casts were accurate, well-made representations of the files I provided to the printers. I would not expect any distortion or squashed detail and I would expect minimal mould lines and complete parts. My expectations were not met.
Below is a photograph of two of the replacement parts sent by the Maxmini, alongside a print supplied by Timo Laumann. These were made from the same file. I left the support tabs on the Perfactory (orange) print so it is a fair comparison. Admittedly, I was sent several cast of each part, but as they are all poor quality, that doesn't help much.
![]() |
L-R: Maxmini resin cast of wax print, Timo Laumann Perfactory Resin Print, Maxmini resin cast of wax print. |
The photograph doesn't quite show the startling difference in definition and detail depth. It really is striking in the hand. But as I explained, some of that is probably to be expected due to the orientation of the prints when they were being made. You get what you pay for in this case. What I really do object to it the level of distortion in the face. I don't know at what stage this occurred - perhaps the wax print was squashed - but it is totally unacceptable. Just look at her face on the left and right casts! That is not even close to what I sculpted.
It seems the pegs attaching the parts to the sprue have also been thickened by Maxmini3D. This has resulted in the gun barrels ends no longer being straight. I assume this was done due to avoid breakage during the printing and moulding for the resin casts. However, I specifically asked if the files as they were supplied were suitable for the company's needs. I was told they were. If they had asked me, I could have thickened the pegs myself and would have done it properly. As supplied, the casts are not suitable for my needs.
There are other bizarre examples of distortion, too. Several of the 'helmets' are no longer symmetrical, with visor slits at different heights on either side. I cannot fathom how this happened. Certainly not due to a misaligned mould - the mould line does not bisect the visor slits!
![]() |
Left: Some of the first batch of castings. Note the distorted faces and broken parts. Right: Some of the replacement castings. Note the distorted faces and crudely 'fixed' parts. |
The quality of the resin castings also leaves something to be desired. I struggled to find any casts that did not feature heavy, ragged mould lines. In addition, all the initial castings I received did not even feature complete base tabs. They just hadn't been filled with resin. Finally, one of the head sprues had been broken at the print stage and instead of reprinting the part, they had crudely attached the heads to another sprue and moulded that. To their credit, Maxmini3D sent replacement casts and a reprinted, remoulded head sprue [edit: my mistake, the sprue was not reprinted, the broken heads were simply stuck back on with superglue...]. Well done on that, but the replacements are still obviously useless.
The initial castings supplied by Maxmini. Note that none of the base tabs are filled completely and how the detached heads have been attached to a second sprue. I supply files as I expect them to be printed - this is not optional! |
Sadly, all this has taken nearly four weeks, delaying the next set of releases and ultimately costing me more in terms of cash flow than just the cost of some bad prints. I have requested a part refund on the distorted, useless parts. Note I've not asked for a full refund as I accept you get what you pay for - cheap prints will always be poor quality, but I cannot accept distorted parts. We shall see how far that gets. This is why I say I'm glad I didn't insist on the parts being printed vertically. If I had they would have cost me far more and while the detail may have been slightly better (I'm not convinced it would have ever matched the Perfactory print), the distortion and bad resin casts would still have meant the parts were useless.
But I have had the parts reprinted by my original printer and now they shall go off for master moulding on Monday. In future, I think I shall stick to what I know. I have a very good, reliable print bureau and likewise a very good, reliable moulding and casting company.
Statuesque Miniatures shall continue to sell the high quality figures my customers have come to expect. Of the companies using substandard print bureaus, I cannot say likewise.
Tuesday, 23 July 2013
Statuesque Fantasy Reboot
I've just finished off the first figure in the new Statuesque Fantasy range. In contrast to Ezmeralda Tyke, this new range will be very differently styled to my sci-fi figures. I really like Ezmeralda as a figure - I think she is among my best work - but due to her size, proportions and delicate features, she doesn't actually work with any of my favourite fantasy figures from other manufacturers. I realised after making her I prefer a chunkier, more caricatured figure in that genre. As such, I have never completed her gang of Malinquents. I also didn't really have a strong enough design for the other characters so she remained alone. She'll be going out of production when current stock sells out. There are a variety of reasons for this, but the positive is I can reboot the Statuesque Fantasy range to a style that will match my fantasy collection!
Anyway, on with the new figure... Lowri Lowrisson, Dwarf Adventurer!
Yup, it's a dwarf. I make no claims to be reinventing the fantasy genre; I want a band of warriors in the classic Heroquest or Warhammer Quest mould, and no-one makes figures that are exactly what I want so I'm making them myself! The plan is for a dwarf (check), a wizard (in a pointy hat), an elf (with a bow) and a barbarian (ridiculously muscled). The other figures are all in progress and share Lowri the Dwarf's caricatured style and exaggerated proportions.
Lowri stands 21mm to the top of his helmet. He'll be quite a chunky little figure, with a large head with exaggerated features and large hands and feet. I think the body design I gave him, where his hips are wider than his shoulders, gives him a nice planted look and avoids the 'barrel' look of some dwarf figures. Please note his knees! ;)
It will take some time to get him on sale as it would probably make sense to release all four adventurers at the same time. I just wanted to share, as I'm quite please with how he's turned out!
What of the Malinquents then? They're likely to appear in another form entirely in the other new genre I'm exploring at the moment...
Anyway, on with the new figure... Lowri Lowrisson, Dwarf Adventurer!
Yup, it's a dwarf. I make no claims to be reinventing the fantasy genre; I want a band of warriors in the classic Heroquest or Warhammer Quest mould, and no-one makes figures that are exactly what I want so I'm making them myself! The plan is for a dwarf (check), a wizard (in a pointy hat), an elf (with a bow) and a barbarian (ridiculously muscled). The other figures are all in progress and share Lowri the Dwarf's caricatured style and exaggerated proportions.
It will take some time to get him on sale as it would probably make sense to release all four adventurers at the same time. I just wanted to share, as I'm quite please with how he's turned out!
What of the Malinquents then? They're likely to appear in another form entirely in the other new genre I'm exploring at the moment...
Thursday, 24 January 2013
Faceless Oppressor Weapon Prototypes
Today I've been working again on the Faceless Oppressors, specifically the main weapons for the troopers. I currently have three designs and I need to decide which will be the standard weapon supplied with the troopers and which will be available as weapon upgrade sprues.
Before I get on to the renders, I would like to preface them with a reminder that these are very large images of something that will be very small. Rifle barrels are at the minimum I feel suitable to ease of production (0.8mm) and details are exaggerated to be visible at actual size (around 16-18mm long) and after two moulding processes. The assault rifle design is very similar to that of the Resistance Fighters so check out how it looks on a figure- I think they're rather finer scaled than most sci-fi figures!
Also, I make no apologies about the fact that my weapons have a very much 'Hollywood' feel rather than real-life tech. So just as designers for a movie (ideally a B-movie!) will take inspiration from real life weapons but twist them to suit their purposes and desired look, so have I. I won't be covering the guns in accessory rails but intend to keep a very clean aesthetic, as should be expected from looking at my previous work.
Faceless Oppressor Combi-Rifle
An assault rifle with integrated grenade launcher, this rifle sets the look of all three designs. In my imaginary world of Secrets, Spies and Saboteurs the various factions share a variety of designs through copying captured weapons. What differentiates each faction's weapons is the quality of manufacture. So while the Resistance manufactured weapons are fairly chunky and basic, the Oppressors weapons cleaner and sleeker. The SOE-designed experimental weapons also all share design elements, some of which have been stolen and copied by the Oppressors.
What this means in reality is that the Oppressor weapons all share a curved underbody and a chamfered upper section, both in profile and cross-section. I also used an oblong vent shape, which references Soviet WW2 SMGs, in place of the round vents used on Resistance weapons.
At its root, the design of the combi-rifle comes from the fact that I cannot fit an ordinary under-slung grenade launcher onto an assault rifle, due to the weapons all having to be interchangeable with the same hand positions. I decided on a single trigger mechanism, assuming some techy way of switching between firing the rifle and firing the grenade launcher... This keeps the design from getting cluttered in my opinion.
Faceless Oppressor Laser-Rifle
The laser-rifle follows the basic format and silhouette of the combi-rifle, though this time the whole body has a curved cross-section shape. This refers back to the Resistance Fighter laser-rifle, which also shares the muzzle shape and vent locations, though here they are in the Oppressor oblong shape. I think I may add some detail inside the three forward vents, possibly some kind of cooling coil.
The 'ammunition' comes in the form of a battery pack slotted into the extended lower section.
Faceless Oppressor Assault Rifle
This rifle closely mirrors the design of the Resistance Fighter assault rifle, but with the Oppressor body shape and vents. I feel I should reduce the height of the stock on this weapon; the height is needed on the previous two guns to balance them visually, though here it overpowers the longer barrel of the assault rifle. This change won't affect interchangeability as the stocks will be attached to the weapons rather than the figures.
So those are the three main weapon designs for the Faceless Oppressors. What I need to decide on now is which to use as the standard weapon supplied with the Trooper pack. Let me know what you think in the comments below and I'll also add a poll on the Statuesque Miniatures Facebook page to see which would be most popular.
I also need to decide whether to add some kind of sights to the weapons. The Oppressors will wear full-face masks with integrated 'optics' (good ol' sci-fi B-movie style) so I don't want a full-on sight but I'm open to suggestions.
All feedback welcome and hopefully I'll have some pictures of the Helmet design to show you soon!
Regards,
Andrew Rae
Tuesday, 22 January 2013
The Plan - Faceless Oppressors
Work is progressing well on the Faceless Oppressor range. I'm alternating days working on this range and more Resistance Fighters. I've found this routine has been really helpful for keeping the work-rate up, as well as allowing a bit of perspective on the progress when I return to the figures after a day of working on something else.
Regarding the Oppressors, so far I've finalised the helmet, gasmask and body armour design. The standard weapon design is set, with just the 'graphics' and details needing to be done. I've also completed the three poses needed for the Trooper pack, now they just need to be dressed.
Speaking of the Trooper Pack, here's the current plan for the launch range:
Faceless Oppressor Trooper Pack
This pack will comprise of three figures with separate heads and weapons. The poses are all based around using the same weapon and hands, in a similar manner to the Resistance fighter range, which allows optional weapons to be held by any figure in the pack. This time, however, the weapon stocks are attached to the weapon parts rather than the figure body, which will allow me more freedom when designing the optional weapons.
I'm quite pleased with how the poses are turning out; they are posed such that a simple turn of the head will change the dynamic of the figure quite considerably. I've also 'themed' each pose to a specific action: one is advancing cautiously, weapon ready; another is rapidly redeploying; while the final is posed ready to provide covering fire. I think they will work really nicely as a fire-team or squad with the other figure Packs.
Faceless Oppressor NCO Pack
This pack will comprise of two figures: a senior NCO and a junior NCO, with separate heads and right arms. The right arms will be positioned differently and be interchangeable between the figures for more variety. The senior and junior NCOs will be distinguished by their helmets rather than their bodies, so again more variety can be achieved between multiple packs. They will feature weapons held in the right hand only, similar to the Resistance Fighter Cell Officer figures. I will pose them as if they are directing their troops, though I will avoid the rather clichéd pointing pose!
Faceless Oppressor Heavy Weapon Team Pack
Again, this pack is made up of two figures, one of which is armed with a heavy machine gun. I would like to use a prone firing position though I am somewhat limited by a maximum available base size of 50mm, only 40mm of which is actually usable for positioning a figure. We shall see. I'd like the 'loader' figure to use the same weapon arm design as the NCOs so he can be armed with all future optional weapons.
Faceless Oppressor Special Weapon Upgrade Sprue
This sprue will be designed to fit the Trooper pack and will feature a squad automatic weapon, a grenade launcher, a flame thrower and an energy weapon of similar design to that used by Lila of the Resistance. These weapons can be used on any of the Trooper figures, allowing for lots of variety between your squads.
Faceless Oppressor Heavy Weapon Upgrade Sprue
This sprue will be designed to upgrade the Heavy Weapon Team from a HMG to a heavy energy cannon. While I'd like to offer this upgrade in the actual HW Team pack, unfortunately mould space will not allow it without a significant increase in costs both to produce and to the customer. As such I feel offering the Weapon Upgrade as an optional extra is the best course of action.
So that is the plan for the initial launch of the range. A NCO pack and two trooper packs will create two fire-teams of four, with the option of heavy weapon support for a squad of ten. The Special Weapon upgrade sprue will allow you to arm your fire-teams as you see fit.
Obviously, once these are on sale (and successful!) I can start working on specialist figures and more upgrade sprues, such as different heads and weapons. Any weapon options such as shotguns would be sold as a pack of only that weapon, including an arm suitable for the NCO (and hopefully HW loader) figures.
But what makes these different from any other near-future trooper range? Well, I fully intend for this to be the best near-future trooper range, plus they'll have a couple of USPs to make them stand out...
However, don't hold your breath! There's still a lot of work to be done. I'll continue to add to the Resistance Fighter range and if you'd like the Faceless Oppressors to become a reality, the best thing to do is buy, buy, buy the girls! ;)
And sorry about the lack of pictures, hopefully I can show some soon. If you're nice.
Regards,
Andrew Rae
Regarding the Oppressors, so far I've finalised the helmet, gasmask and body armour design. The standard weapon design is set, with just the 'graphics' and details needing to be done. I've also completed the three poses needed for the Trooper pack, now they just need to be dressed.
Speaking of the Trooper Pack, here's the current plan for the launch range:
Faceless Oppressor Trooper Pack
This pack will comprise of three figures with separate heads and weapons. The poses are all based around using the same weapon and hands, in a similar manner to the Resistance fighter range, which allows optional weapons to be held by any figure in the pack. This time, however, the weapon stocks are attached to the weapon parts rather than the figure body, which will allow me more freedom when designing the optional weapons.
I'm quite pleased with how the poses are turning out; they are posed such that a simple turn of the head will change the dynamic of the figure quite considerably. I've also 'themed' each pose to a specific action: one is advancing cautiously, weapon ready; another is rapidly redeploying; while the final is posed ready to provide covering fire. I think they will work really nicely as a fire-team or squad with the other figure Packs.
Faceless Oppressor NCO Pack
This pack will comprise of two figures: a senior NCO and a junior NCO, with separate heads and right arms. The right arms will be positioned differently and be interchangeable between the figures for more variety. The senior and junior NCOs will be distinguished by their helmets rather than their bodies, so again more variety can be achieved between multiple packs. They will feature weapons held in the right hand only, similar to the Resistance Fighter Cell Officer figures. I will pose them as if they are directing their troops, though I will avoid the rather clichéd pointing pose!
Faceless Oppressor Heavy Weapon Team Pack
Again, this pack is made up of two figures, one of which is armed with a heavy machine gun. I would like to use a prone firing position though I am somewhat limited by a maximum available base size of 50mm, only 40mm of which is actually usable for positioning a figure. We shall see. I'd like the 'loader' figure to use the same weapon arm design as the NCOs so he can be armed with all future optional weapons.
Faceless Oppressor Special Weapon Upgrade Sprue
This sprue will be designed to fit the Trooper pack and will feature a squad automatic weapon, a grenade launcher, a flame thrower and an energy weapon of similar design to that used by Lila of the Resistance. These weapons can be used on any of the Trooper figures, allowing for lots of variety between your squads.
Faceless Oppressor Heavy Weapon Upgrade Sprue
This sprue will be designed to upgrade the Heavy Weapon Team from a HMG to a heavy energy cannon. While I'd like to offer this upgrade in the actual HW Team pack, unfortunately mould space will not allow it without a significant increase in costs both to produce and to the customer. As such I feel offering the Weapon Upgrade as an optional extra is the best course of action.
So that is the plan for the initial launch of the range. A NCO pack and two trooper packs will create two fire-teams of four, with the option of heavy weapon support for a squad of ten. The Special Weapon upgrade sprue will allow you to arm your fire-teams as you see fit.
Obviously, once these are on sale (and successful!) I can start working on specialist figures and more upgrade sprues, such as different heads and weapons. Any weapon options such as shotguns would be sold as a pack of only that weapon, including an arm suitable for the NCO (and hopefully HW loader) figures.
But what makes these different from any other near-future trooper range? Well, I fully intend for this to be the best near-future trooper range, plus they'll have a couple of USPs to make them stand out...
However, don't hold your breath! There's still a lot of work to be done. I'll continue to add to the Resistance Fighter range and if you'd like the Faceless Oppressors to become a reality, the best thing to do is buy, buy, buy the girls! ;)
And sorry about the lack of pictures, hopefully I can show some soon. If you're nice.
Regards,
Andrew Rae
Wednesday, 12 December 2012
The Mechanics of a Figure Range
Here at my desk, I'm in the early stages of planning and sculpting for a range of opponents for the Resistance Fighters : The Faceless Oppressors. It will be of a similar composition to the Resistance Fighter range, with troop packs and various specialists. What I need to do now is decide how the figures will be constructed, namely how weapons and heads can be swapped to give extra variety. As such, I'd like your feedback on your experience of the Resistance Fighter range. To help you get an idea of what feedback I'd like, I'll give a summary of the considerations and decisions I made when designing the Resistance Fighter range and how this relates to the Faceless Oppressor range.
Since releasing my own figures through Statuesque Miniatures, I've become more and more aware of the need for figures to go together easily and to be as few parts as possible. For the Resistance Fighter range, I decided separate heads were a necessary extra part, in order to give more variety when using multiples of the same figure and to allow customers to personalise their force as they saw fit.
The second necessary separate parts were the weapons. The four figures in the Female Resistance Fighter pack all use the same weapon part, with exactly the same hand positions. This meant I could design extra weapons that could be used on any of the four figures, again adding more variety and allowing the customer to tailor their force to specific needs.
I believe the decision to construct the Resistance Fighters this way has paid off, as many customers are purchasing multiple packs, or buying head and weapon sprues to personalise their figures. While some people may not want to feature the same figure twice in their force, for others this is obviously less of an issue and, for me, swapping heads and head positions and using different weapons as appropriate allows a surprising amount of distinction between figures. The choice of paint scheme can also help to add variety.
In contrast to many figure ranges that feature separate heads, I decided to have the neck of the figure attached to the body rather than the head. I first used this method on the Fembots I sculpted for Crooked Dice. As a sculptor, this method is far preferable to having the neck attached to the head, especially for female figures, as it allows a much more realistic movement of the head, meaning better posing of the final figure. I can alter the neck position as appropriate for the pose still give the customer plenty of options for the head position.
Obviously there are limits to this; for example if I position the neck too much for a figure looking to their left, it will look odd if the head is positioned looking to the right. However, if I bear this in mind and don't over-do the neck position, it still produces a much nicer pose than the alternative.
There are some drawbacks though. If the neck were attached to the head rather than the body, the base of the neck would provide a handy point to connect to the sprue. By requiring the head to feature a curved socket for joining to the neck, I am limiting the ways I can connect that head to the sprue. The original Female Resistance Fighter pack suffers somewhat in this regard, with the removal of metal from the join area being something of a pain. This is also why the Helmeted Heads attached to the sprue at the top of the helmet, as I thought it easier to file the helmet smooth than to trim the join area. From my experience this has proved to be the case. For the upcoming head sprue with no helmets and hats I'm going to have to put a bit of thought into how I attach the heads to the sprue without obscuring details, but I'm confident they will be an improvement on the Female Resistance Fighter heads.
Statuesque Miniatures are somewhat finer in proportion and details than some ranges. This means weapons and hands are smaller than those of some 'Heroic'-sized figures. I'm sure I've been cursed a few times by customers whilst they pin skinny arms to bodies, though I think the newer figures in the Statuesque range are easier to put together than the older ones. And as I said, I always try to minimise the number of parts.
For the Resistance Fighters, aware that each figure would have a separate gun, I wanted the process of putting them together to be as painless as possible. As such, each of the core figures has a plug and socket system for attaching the weapons; the wrists of each hand form the plug and the cuffs of the arms form the socket. I believe this has proved to be a good system as I've not found the need to pin the weapons, though for extra security one pin in the right arm would be fairly simple to do.
Again it is slightly limiting in that each weapon option has to have the same hand positions and the same weapon stock, but I think the compromise was worth it. Were I to do the Female Resistance Fighter pack again, I would alter some poses, mainly for the position of the mould split and undercuts, but it's not something the affects the final, assembled figure.
One alternative would have been to have the bodies spit at the waist, with weapons attached to the torso. While this would allow more variety for swapping torsos and legs, for female figures in particular it would have severely compromised the poses. The additional cost of producing alternative weapon sprues would also have been significant.
So how does all this affect the Faceless Oppressor range? Well, as I said, the range will follow a similar pattern to the Resistance Fighters, though there are some key differences: initially the all figures will be male, they will be uniform in appearance and the majority will be wearing helmets. More standardised equipment in a fire-team means there will likely be fewer basic weapon options needed, too.
Let's start with the heads. Most miniature ranges that feature separate heads use the opposite method from the Resistance Fighters, with the neck attached to the head. So in order to maximise sales, surely it would make sense to use this method for the male Faceless Oppressor range (any female figures in this line would use the same method as the Resistance Fighters)? However, as Statuesque proportions are not 'heroic' it would be unlikely that the heads would be suitable for use on your more 'heroic' soldiers. I would prefer to design the parts first and foremost for my range, rather than anybody else's! My preference as a sculptor is the method I already use as I think it gives better results.
Now for the guns: The First Method is for separate, interchangeable weapons as with the Resistance Fighters. Method Two would feature separate torso and legs with different torso options for different guns. The former will be cheaper for me to produce and therefore can be sold cheaper; the latter will allow more variety in pose by swapping torsos and legs around but will mean I can produce fewer different weapons. I also have my reservations about the effect a waist split would have on posing; the hip to shoulder position is very important! The Third Method would be to only have separate heads and to produce a single figure each for weapons such as grenade launchers, squad automatic weapons and light flame throwers. In this case, it would be less likely I would produce weapon options such as shotguns.
In all three options, specialists such as heavy weapon teams and officers would be stand-alone figures (with separate, interchangeable heads.
So what would be your preference, based on your experience of the Resistance Fighter range? Do you appreciate the extra head and weapon options or are the number of poses too limiting for you to consider more than a small warband? Feel free to leave your comments either here on the blog or on the link I've posted on Facebook. I want to use the experience of the Resistance Fighter range to produce the best range of figures possible, sold at a price that will allow you all to buy lots of them!
For those who prefer the character allowed by having a figure come with it's head attached, don't worry, I still plan to release figures like this independent of the Resistance Fighter and Faceless Oppressor ranges; I've been feeling the need to sculpt some more S.O.E. girls!
And if you've read this far (thanks!), don't forget we're still running a sale! Discount code LILA2012 for 10% off all figures! ;)
Head and weapons swap variety in action! |
The second necessary separate parts were the weapons. The four figures in the Female Resistance Fighter pack all use the same weapon part, with exactly the same hand positions. This meant I could design extra weapons that could be used on any of the four figures, again adding more variety and allowing the customer to tailor their force to specific needs.
An unassembled Resistance Fighter. |
The Mechanics of a Head
In contrast to many figure ranges that feature separate heads, I decided to have the neck of the figure attached to the body rather than the head. I first used this method on the Fembots I sculpted for Crooked Dice. As a sculptor, this method is far preferable to having the neck attached to the head, especially for female figures, as it allows a much more realistic movement of the head, meaning better posing of the final figure. I can alter the neck position as appropriate for the pose still give the customer plenty of options for the head position.
Obviously there are limits to this; for example if I position the neck too much for a figure looking to their left, it will look odd if the head is positioned looking to the right. However, if I bear this in mind and don't over-do the neck position, it still produces a much nicer pose than the alternative.
![]() |
Yes, the top of the helmet really is the best place for the sprue join! |
How to Hold a Gun
Statuesque Miniatures are somewhat finer in proportion and details than some ranges. This means weapons and hands are smaller than those of some 'Heroic'-sized figures. I'm sure I've been cursed a few times by customers whilst they pin skinny arms to bodies, though I think the newer figures in the Statuesque range are easier to put together than the older ones. And as I said, I always try to minimise the number of parts.
For the Resistance Fighters, aware that each figure would have a separate gun, I wanted the process of putting them together to be as painless as possible. As such, each of the core figures has a plug and socket system for attaching the weapons; the wrists of each hand form the plug and the cuffs of the arms form the socket. I believe this has proved to be a good system as I've not found the need to pin the weapons, though for extra security one pin in the right arm would be fairly simple to do.
![]() |
Lots of guns, but only one set of hands. |
One alternative would have been to have the bodies spit at the waist, with weapons attached to the torso. While this would allow more variety for swapping torsos and legs, for female figures in particular it would have severely compromised the poses. The additional cost of producing alternative weapon sprues would also have been significant.
Learning from Experience
So how does all this affect the Faceless Oppressor range? Well, as I said, the range will follow a similar pattern to the Resistance Fighters, though there are some key differences: initially the all figures will be male, they will be uniform in appearance and the majority will be wearing helmets. More standardised equipment in a fire-team means there will likely be fewer basic weapon options needed, too.
Let's start with the heads. Most miniature ranges that feature separate heads use the opposite method from the Resistance Fighters, with the neck attached to the head. So in order to maximise sales, surely it would make sense to use this method for the male Faceless Oppressor range (any female figures in this line would use the same method as the Resistance Fighters)? However, as Statuesque proportions are not 'heroic' it would be unlikely that the heads would be suitable for use on your more 'heroic' soldiers. I would prefer to design the parts first and foremost for my range, rather than anybody else's! My preference as a sculptor is the method I already use as I think it gives better results.
Now for the guns: The First Method is for separate, interchangeable weapons as with the Resistance Fighters. Method Two would feature separate torso and legs with different torso options for different guns. The former will be cheaper for me to produce and therefore can be sold cheaper; the latter will allow more variety in pose by swapping torsos and legs around but will mean I can produce fewer different weapons. I also have my reservations about the effect a waist split would have on posing; the hip to shoulder position is very important! The Third Method would be to only have separate heads and to produce a single figure each for weapons such as grenade launchers, squad automatic weapons and light flame throwers. In this case, it would be less likely I would produce weapon options such as shotguns.
In all three options, specialists such as heavy weapon teams and officers would be stand-alone figures (with separate, interchangeable heads.
So what would be your preference, based on your experience of the Resistance Fighter range? Do you appreciate the extra head and weapon options or are the number of poses too limiting for you to consider more than a small warband? Feel free to leave your comments either here on the blog or on the link I've posted on Facebook. I want to use the experience of the Resistance Fighter range to produce the best range of figures possible, sold at a price that will allow you all to buy lots of them!
For those who prefer the character allowed by having a figure come with it's head attached, don't worry, I still plan to release figures like this independent of the Resistance Fighter and Faceless Oppressor ranges; I've been feeling the need to sculpt some more S.O.E. girls!
And if you've read this far (thanks!), don't forget we're still running a sale! Discount code LILA2012 for 10% off all figures! ;)
Saturday, 14 January 2012
Entering a fantasy world...
Well, Christmas and New Year (as well as a 'significant number' birthday) have been and gone and while it wasn't the most productive of festive periods, I do feel refreshed and have been really enjoying sculpting lately. I'm quite excited about some figures that are a bit different from the current Statuesque Miniatures line up.
For a while, I've had the urge to sculpt some fantasy figures but until now I hadn't been able to pin down quite what angle I was going to take. The sci-fi figures I do are fairly generic, though hopefully with a little twist or a nice pose to keep things interesting, and I find it easy to come up with ideas for that kind of figure. I guess I could do a similar thing for fantasy, making generic figures (most probably female and sexy...) in various styles of fantasy outfit, but to be honest I'm not really sufficiently interested in or knowledgeable of fantasy/historical armour and clothing to pull that off. Tre Manor of Red Box Games is for me the master of this type of figure and has created a brilliant range of figures. He's clearly know his stuff when it comes to the fantasy genre and I know I don't have the knowledge to do something similar. Plus, why would I try to compete when he's created such a comprehensive range?
No, I need to find my own way in the fantasy world. Part of my ugre to create some fantasy characters is a desire to sculpt some weirder and more unusual figures; scary monsters and gribbly creatures that are a world away from my sci-fi girls. Jody Siegel's amazing Imbrian Arts goblins and Dave King's rather joyful Bederken figures have captured my attention, as well as various 'old school' Citadel Miniatures blogs that showcase the charms of the often eccentric but always characterful nature of many older figures. I've also been pouring over artwork from the likes of John Bauer and Brian Froud, surely sources inspiration for many of the figures I've been admiring.
One thing that has been impressed on me is the story telling aspect of much of what I've mentioned above. While I do indeed have an elaborate, overarching story behind my sci-fi range (though it's all a bit shoehorned in...) it's not really necessary for me to convey that. Sexy girls with guns will be popular regardless of what history I have invented for them!
For my fantasy range, I really want a story to hang everything on from the beginning and I've had fun trying to create what is essentially a fairytale told through miniatures and various vague and cryptic passages of text. Through this, I hope the rather disparate range of figures I have planned will work together as a whole and allow the customer to invest some imagination in them beyond what the figure immediately portrays. The theme I have chosen to work around is the classic 'girl lost in a fantasy land' Ã la Alice in Wonderland, The Wizard of Oz, Labyrinth and much more. So, sure it's not original but there nothing wrong with an archetype!
Apologies for the lack of pretty picture but hopefully I'll have something to share soon. In the meantime, here's the first piece of the story puzzle:
Malinquent /mə'lɪŋkwənt/ (n.)
1. A malingering delinquent.
2. (The) Malinquents: A band of rogues formerly led by Malink the Ostrich Knight.
For a while, I've had the urge to sculpt some fantasy figures but until now I hadn't been able to pin down quite what angle I was going to take. The sci-fi figures I do are fairly generic, though hopefully with a little twist or a nice pose to keep things interesting, and I find it easy to come up with ideas for that kind of figure. I guess I could do a similar thing for fantasy, making generic figures (most probably female and sexy...) in various styles of fantasy outfit, but to be honest I'm not really sufficiently interested in or knowledgeable of fantasy/historical armour and clothing to pull that off. Tre Manor of Red Box Games is for me the master of this type of figure and has created a brilliant range of figures. He's clearly know his stuff when it comes to the fantasy genre and I know I don't have the knowledge to do something similar. Plus, why would I try to compete when he's created such a comprehensive range?
No, I need to find my own way in the fantasy world. Part of my ugre to create some fantasy characters is a desire to sculpt some weirder and more unusual figures; scary monsters and gribbly creatures that are a world away from my sci-fi girls. Jody Siegel's amazing Imbrian Arts goblins and Dave King's rather joyful Bederken figures have captured my attention, as well as various 'old school' Citadel Miniatures blogs that showcase the charms of the often eccentric but always characterful nature of many older figures. I've also been pouring over artwork from the likes of John Bauer and Brian Froud, surely sources inspiration for many of the figures I've been admiring.
One thing that has been impressed on me is the story telling aspect of much of what I've mentioned above. While I do indeed have an elaborate, overarching story behind my sci-fi range (though it's all a bit shoehorned in...) it's not really necessary for me to convey that. Sexy girls with guns will be popular regardless of what history I have invented for them!
For my fantasy range, I really want a story to hang everything on from the beginning and I've had fun trying to create what is essentially a fairytale told through miniatures and various vague and cryptic passages of text. Through this, I hope the rather disparate range of figures I have planned will work together as a whole and allow the customer to invest some imagination in them beyond what the figure immediately portrays. The theme I have chosen to work around is the classic 'girl lost in a fantasy land' Ã la Alice in Wonderland, The Wizard of Oz, Labyrinth and much more. So, sure it's not original but there nothing wrong with an archetype!
Apologies for the lack of pretty picture but hopefully I'll have something to share soon. In the meantime, here's the first piece of the story puzzle:
Malinquent /mə'lɪŋkwənt/ (n.)
1. A malingering delinquent.
2. (The) Malinquents: A band of rogues formerly led by Malink the Ostrich Knight.
Sunday, 18 December 2011
A Big List of Everything
So I decided I wanted to try and list everything I'd sculpted, or rather every completed figure I've done. There have been some that got started and never finished but not that many really. I got a bit carried away linking to pictures of each figure and then to where they're available as appropriate. Some have been blanked out as they haven't seen the light of day yet.
1.Pixie with a Pistol
2.Selkie
3.Halfling Wench
4.Halfling Pirate
5.Halfling Thief
6.Halfling Cook
7.Halfling Swashbuckler
9.Agatha Fox (Reaper Miniatures)
10.Lila
11.Astrid Berger (Reaper Miniatures)
12.Reporter (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
13.Camera Man (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
14.Charity
15.Dryad (Otherworld Miniatures)
16.Nymph (Otherworld Miniatures)
17.Sylph (Otherworld Miniatures)
18.Harem Girl 1 (Harwoods Hobbies)
19.Harem Girl 2 (Harwoods Hobbies)
20.B*******n 1
21.B*******n 2
22.B*******n 3
23.Technician Female (Antenociti's Workshop)
24.Technician Male (Antenociti's Workshop)
25.Leprechaun (Otherworld Miniatures)
26.Brownie (Otherworld Miniatures)
27.Sprite (Otherworld Miniatures)
28.Pixie (Otherworld Miniatures)
29.Havana Gray (Statuesque Miniatures)
30.Mei-Lin Mayfair (Statuesque Miniatures)
31.Kitzie Rama (Statuesque Miniatures)
32.Biker Girl 1 (Antenociti's Workshop)
33.Biker Girl 2 (Antenociti's Workshop)
34.Daisy Tailor (Crooked Dice)
35.Bella the Partisan (Statuesque Miniatures)
36.Gunfighter Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
37.Cook Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
38.Baba Yaga (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
39.Militant Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
40.Sniper Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
41.May Killan (Crooked Dice)
42.Charlie's Angel
43.Six (Private)
44.Timothy Whopping (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
45.Inigo Wilde (Statuesque Miniatures)
46.Pandora King (Crooked Dice)
47.N**** A****
48.H***** A****
49.M** I* B****
50.Jim Barrowight (Crooked Dice)
51.Fembot 1 (Crooked Dice)
52.Fembot 2 (Crooked Dice)
53.R****
54.D**** G***
55.Eight (Private)
56.Emilia 'Foxy' Foxwell (Statuesque Miniatures)
57.Grumpy Old Man (Private)
58.Travers (Crooked Dice)
59.Lady Wintermore (Crooked Dice)
60.Poppy Come-Lately (Statuesque Miniatures)
61.Tilly Tumbleworth (Statuesque Miniatures)
62.T*****
I think that's it- everything I've done since I first started sculpting in May 2007. 16 males and 46 females.
1.Pixie with a Pistol
2.Selkie
3.Halfling Wench
4.Halfling Pirate
5.Halfling Thief
6.Halfling Cook
7.Halfling Swashbuckler
9.Agatha Fox (Reaper Miniatures)
10.Lila
11.Astrid Berger (Reaper Miniatures)
12.Reporter (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
13.Camera Man (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
14.Charity
15.Dryad (Otherworld Miniatures)
16.Nymph (Otherworld Miniatures)
17.Sylph (Otherworld Miniatures)
18.Harem Girl 1 (Harwoods Hobbies)
19.Harem Girl 2 (Harwoods Hobbies)
20.B*******n 1
21.B*******n 2
22.B*******n 3
23.Technician Female (Antenociti's Workshop)
24.Technician Male (Antenociti's Workshop)
25.Leprechaun (Otherworld Miniatures)
26.Brownie (Otherworld Miniatures)
27.Sprite (Otherworld Miniatures)
28.Pixie (Otherworld Miniatures)
29.Havana Gray (Statuesque Miniatures)
30.Mei-Lin Mayfair (Statuesque Miniatures)
31.Kitzie Rama (Statuesque Miniatures)
32.Biker Girl 1 (Antenociti's Workshop)
33.Biker Girl 2 (Antenociti's Workshop)
34.Daisy Tailor (Crooked Dice)
35.Bella the Partisan (Statuesque Miniatures)
36.Gunfighter Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
37.Cook Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
38.Baba Yaga (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
39.Militant Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
40.Sniper Witch (Lead Adventure Miniatures)
41.May Killan (Crooked Dice)
42.Charlie's Angel
43.Six (Private)
44.Timothy Whopping (Frothers Sculpting Competition)
45.Inigo Wilde (Statuesque Miniatures)
46.Pandora King (Crooked Dice)
47.N**** A****
48.H***** A****
49.M** I* B****
50.Jim Barrowight (Crooked Dice)
51.Fembot 1 (Crooked Dice)
52.Fembot 2 (Crooked Dice)
53.R****
54.D**** G***
55.Eight (Private)
56.Emilia 'Foxy' Foxwell (Statuesque Miniatures)
57.Grumpy Old Man (Private)
58.Travers (Crooked Dice)
59.Lady Wintermore (Crooked Dice)
60.Poppy Come-Lately (Statuesque Miniatures)
61.Tilly Tumbleworth (Statuesque Miniatures)
62.T*****
I think that's it- everything I've done since I first started sculpting in May 2007. 16 males and 46 females.
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